Slavatore Ferregamo Fashion Show Milano 2020

Metamodern
Menswear Autumn/Winter 2020 Collection

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Marking Salvatore Ferragamoโ€™s return to Milanโ€™s menswear schedule our Creative Director Paul Andrew embarks upon a playful exploration of the increasingly diverse and fluid and free nature of contemporary
masculine identities.

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Paul Andrew explains: โ€œIn this first Ferragamo show of the new decade I want to use the language of fashion to ask: what does masculinity look like in 2020? To find answers we began with six โ€˜alphaโ€™ male archetypes – Businessman, Biker, Racing Driver, Sailor, Soldier and Surfer. Then we fabricated their attire applying traditional Ferragamo artisanship guided by a determinedly non-conformist attitude. The agenda is to retain the aesthetic of uniform while subverting the once-rigid assumptions it enforced. To do this
we use luxuriously tactile and fluid materials blend together our six masculine categories.
Clothes can define you: worn with thought and freedom they can also redefine you by serving as tools for experiment, evolution and transformation.

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This power held by clothing is something I see is much more relished in womenswear: today I wanted to create clothes and accessories for change in a very masculine
context. A man today is not obliged to assume a single, set role: he can be a multitude, and he can change his worn identity any time he wishes. Thatโ€™s a freedom we want to explore in the 2020s.โ€Shoes
Following the Ferragamo โ€˜toe to headโ€™ philosophy, this collection is based upon a foundation of footwear. These include bench made boots whose leather uppers are combined with the fabric of the garment worn
above, featuring triple-stacked cuoio leather soles with square Gancini stud accessories. Large profile
โ€˜bikerโ€™ and โ€˜armyโ€™ boots feature a high-flex V-lug (inspired by 1949 archival Ferragamo shoe) with a hybrid lace up/Chelsea boot upper.
Accessories
The โ€˜Tornabuoniโ€™ group evolves into a holdall and camera bag. Duffle bags in lightweight upholstery, hand-woven wide weave totes with matching belts and the new square Gancini stud buckle. Leather trimmed sunglasses.
Clothes
This collection abounds with sensualised, elevated and rethought masculine โ€˜uniformโ€™ classics from its six archetype genres: these are then mixed into outfits that defy categorisation – hero pieces for anti-heroes.
The opening look, for instance, features a peacoat (Sailor) in Scottish herringbone tweed (Businessman) with a double pleat at the front drawn from 1980โ€™s Japanese beachwear and worn over double faced silk wool leggings (Surfer). Elsewhere a leather fire suit (Racing driver) is worn under a rib knit sweater (Sailor) and a surferโ€™s kangaroo pocketed vest. โ€œCamouflageโ€ print pieces (Military) in oxblood and olive are in fact palm prints (Surfer) which are worn against leather flight jacket (Soldier). Front-fold velcro-belt pants
(Surfer), grain calfskin leathers (Biker) are also part of our mix-but-not-match multitude.
The collection abounds with these swirling cocktails of reference and expression.

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